Building a cruising catamaran

[Frank Woolf]

At last I got started on the first boat to be kept at the beach house. The boat is a 16 foot cruising catamaran designed by Ray Aldridge.

The boat is designed for comfortable cruising, fishing and generally relaxing on the water. I will make some minor changes like a different boarding ladder and a bracket for a small outboard motor. The winds usually drop suddenly during the day where we are and the currents can be very strong so I think a motor will be essential.

The pictures below belong to Ray Aldridge and are of his prototype. For more info take a look at Ray's site here (http://slidercat.com/blog/wordpress/) and the Duckworks page here. (http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/aldridge/slider/index.htm)

[Frank Woolf]

The first job is the make a strongback. This holds all the bulkheads in place while the basic hull is built.

Finding straight wood in the Philippines is close to impossible without paying a fortune for imported wood. Fortunately the strongback does not have to be dead straight. A string/wire/line is stretched tight from one end to the other and all measurements for fitting the bulkheads are referenced from this.

This line must be exactly level so you can use a plumb line or spirit level to ensure the bulkheads are exactly at right angles to the line. I fitted a length of clear plastic tube from one end to the other with the ends sticking up past the line. Then filled it with water so I could see if the water level was the same distance from the line at each end. A quick look any time would show if anything had caused the line to become off-level.

The first picture shows the basic frame of the strongback on two low sawhorses.

The second picture shows one end of the line and the level indicator tube.

Picture three shows the 3/4" ply vertical panels used to hold the bulkheads in place.

Picture four is just a side view of some of the panels.

[Frank Woolf]

With the strongback finished it was time to start making the bulkheads.

I found a supplier of Santa Clara marine ply which is recommended by many boat builders here and I am very impressed by the quality. I have so far seen no voids, weak spots or even blemishes on the outside.

Most of the bulkheads are 1/4" marine ply with a wood frame. Two are just a frame with a ply gusset as these are in the open part of the hull.

I cut two identical sets by clamping two sheets of ply together and cutting through both sheets with a jigsaw. The ply just needed a little cleaning up around the edges with a small plane then I fitted the wood framing. I used a good wood adhesive with screws to hold the joints tight until the glue sets. Then I removed the screws and will fill the holes. I will probably wrap the joints with fiberglass just to make sure they are all strong and watertight.

I have spent 3 days working on it since the strongback was finished. The first set of bulkheads and the inner stem are all mounted on the strongback and the sheer clamp - the stringer that goes around the top edge of the sides (gunwales) - has been fitted to the stem and bulkheads.

The strip of wood across the tops of the bulkheads and inner stem is temporary to hold each bulkhead at right angles to the line while the stringers are all fitted.

The first picture shows a couple of bulkhead panels cut and waiting to be framed.

The second and third pictures show where I am up to today.

A couple of things I noticed as I was packing up today. The bulkhead forward of the rear transom seems to be very slightly high as the sheer clamp is slightly higher by maybe 1/8" at this point. One of the open frame bulkheads appears twisted as one side looks vertical while other looks like it is sloping. Both these things will be very easy to fix when I work on it tomorrow.

[Frank Woolf]

Only a little progress today because I need to go shopping. I corrected the minor problems noted yesterday and added the mid height stringers.

Its worth noting a couple of changes I did at this point. I hope they don't turn out to be mistakes:

I made the rear transom with 1/2" ply instead of 1/4" ply to give extra strength for mounting the rudders. The designer, Ray Aldridge agreed this was OK.

Today when fitting the mid height stringers I did things a little different. The plans show the 3/4" square stringers with a flat side aligned with the sides of the bulkheads then the top edge planed to create a level surface. I decided to fit the stringers with the top edge already flat then I will plane the outside using the camber board as a guide to make them align with the bulkhead sides and the ply planking.

After the bottom corner (chine) stringers are fitted it will be easy to use the camber board and plane the mid height stringers to fit just right.

I want to plane them a little on the outside anyway because I have to use two pieces end to end to get the required length. The join does not exactly follow the curve of the rest of the stringer so I can correct it with a little planing.

[Frank Woolf]

Only a couple of days work on the boat since my last post. I don't have the fiberglass cloth yet as I am waiting for it to come from Manila. The next job for the first hull was to join sheets of ply end to end with fiberglass to make 16 feet by 4 feet sheets.

I have taken the first hull off the strongback and hung it from the ceiling in the hope that my puppies won't be tempted to chew on it while I make a start on the second hull.

The bulkheads, inner stem and center stringer are done. One or two days more work and this one will be ready for the outer ply also. Then there will not be much I can do until the cloth arrives.

[Frank Woolf]

I managed to find a local supplier of the right type and size if fiberglass cloth so I was able to join sheets of ply end to end making 16 feet by 4 feet sheets.

I clamped these onto the sides of the first hull, marked the positions of all the bulkheads and stringers then cut them roughly to the shape of the hull.

They were then fitted to the hull with flour thickened epoxy and held in place with about 150 screws on each side while the epoxy set.

The first hull now has the planking done on both sides.

While looking for the fiberglass cloth I made a small addition. Being an open top hull means rainwater and occasionally sea spray will get inside. Also I like to hose down boats when they come ashore from being used in the sea so emptying water from the cockpit will be a regular job.

You can't pick up a 16 foot catamaran and turn it over to empty water out and continued use of a bailer will eventually mess up the paint. I wanted to fit self bailers but I don't think a Slider will be fast enough for them to work.

The only solution I could think of was drain plugs but they need to be at the back and not allow water into the aft buoyancy compartment so I installed PVC pipe from the rear transom to the rear of the open cockpit. Screw in drain plugs will then be fitted at the rear transom end after painting is complete.

The first picture shows hull number one with the side planking fitted.

Pictures 2 and 3 show the drain pipe fitted through the rear buoyancy compartment. The pipe will of course weaken the rear transom and bulkhead but I already used 11 mm ply for the rear transom and I will be using 11 mm ply for the bottom so strength should not be a problem.

[Frank Woolf]

My old Land Cruiser has been out of action with a dud alternator for two weeks so I was unable to get another sheet of 11mm ply to finish the bottom of the second hull.

We got the plywood yesterday and today the second hull has complete sides and bottom planking.

I think my next job will be the dagger board enclosure as this should be done before covering the hull with fiberglass. Then I am undecided whether I should do the fiberglass before I put on the rub rails. This would seem the best but I will go over the plans and build booklet before I decide.

[Frank Woolf]

The last couple of days I have been making the dagger board case and the duckboard floor panels so there is not much to look at inside yet.

I have left off the side of the dagger board case until the dagger board is shaped. This way I hope to be able to cut the hole in the bottom of the hull to fit the shape of the dagger board.

The picture shows the 1/4" ply being glued to each side of the 3/4" ply for the shaped part of the dagger board. After it is shaped I will add 1/4" ply across the top 12". Hopefully this will achieve a nice sharp transition where it changes from shaped to non-shaped and avoid any possibility of the dagger board sticking down.

[jens]

Hello Frank.....
I'v been lurking,as U know,in "building a boat" and have been close to commenting on Ur project as well as been tempted to comment on some aspects of the design and construction.The last post on the dagger board construction however made me overcome my fear of Your vengance (big Biker Dude)(Your past pics) ,perhaps research the structural aspects of dagger/center boards as well as rudders.The forces on these apendages are"shear" and plywood has half or more fiber direction not contributing to to this ,If I may suggest try laminating solid lumber ,a"hard transitions" in ply also are prone to endgrain exposure and moisture penetration=ROTT.
Regards,jens

[Frank Woolf]

Thanks for the input. I hope your fears are unfounded. The boat is a gentle cruising design with a smallish sail area and the designer has used his for quite a while without damage. Also the winds in the gulf are almost always light to the point where I might even need a bigger sail.

However I do tend to think the same as you and have made some of my own modifications for extra strength in various places like a double thickness transom (for rudder mounting strength), double thickness bottom planking, extra reinforcement of the dagger board case, etc. I have made the case slightly bigger than the plans so I have space to encapsulate the dagger board using 200 gsm fiberglass cloth.

If I thought it was possible to get decent wood anywhere near straight in Davao I would certainly consider making the daggerboard out of solid wood but its virtually impossible to find any wood at all that is straight. Even paying the huge prices for wood from hardware stores you still get splits and twisted bent, curved wood.

If I find the ply dagger board is not strong enough then the only thing I can think of is to assemble one from many small pieces of solid wood with each one planed to fit the next but it would be a very big job considering the poor quality of the wood available.

I still haven't figured out how I will make the mast. It should be two pieces of 2" x 4" x 16 feet epoxied together but finding that is impossible. Next best is 4 pieces of 2" x 4" x 8 feet with offset joints but the only straight wood that size I can find is soft pine wood and even that would cost about 5,000 pesos.

Maybe I can find a straight gemalina tree and make it out of one piece!

I am wondering about other materials for the mast but really don't know what to use or where to get it.

Please do post any other suggestions or comments you may have.

[jens]

no fear here,a multihull has to be LIGHT ,doubeling ply is not the answer,it has to be logically designed/engineered.
"WWW.pinoyboats.org" is an exellent fountain of local phil boatbuilding info,I'been here for 3 years and cant get info (those puckered lips in giving directions to me meant some one wanted to kiss me.)
As for the mast ,have You considered Bambo?I'm spoiled as most of my boatbuilding was in canada,also the availability of used lumber in north america is priceless,Criss White build his trimaran "Juniper"with lumber salvadged from New York city watertanks of demolished buildings.
I'm ramblin ,love to sit down and chat with You about boats,dogs,solar energie,diabetes,herbal healthcare .............
jens

[Frank Woolf]

I hear you and will be keeping a careful eye on the daggerboard. I am lazy so I won't try making one with solid wood if I don't have to. If I good get good quality wood I would enjoy shaping solid wood more than ply.

I know I am adding weight but the design is quite heavy and strong compared to fast cats. This one is slow cruising cat for old folks like me to cruise around gently so I doubt if what I add will make a difference other than adding more weight to pull up the beach into the boat house.

I am a member of Pinoy Boats. Its a good site and I did post a series of pictures and description of the stainless steel and fiberglass hard T-top I made for the sport fishing boat I recently sold. (my username is Skywoolf)

I have thought of bamboo. There is certainly plenty of it here although most is thin wall types. A friend suggested I go look at some of the old buildings out in the boondocks that are dilapidated and often deserted. They are often built with hardwood that is seasoned and straight and the owner may be willing to sell some or all of the wood.

Where are you based now?

[jens]

I'm in cebu,talisay city,however very actively searching to relocate to escape polution and to get to clean water again,long story
I did post pics and some info on this site,however I am not to bright and get lost trying to navigate this forum regime,(cognative chalenged ,ie trying to attach a pic (=1000 words) to this message I need the url?.E-mail or two tin cans and a piece of string is more my speed
respectfully,jens

[Frank Woolf]

Its a lot easier than it appears. When you are entering the text for a message scroll down and click the "Manage Attachments" button. A small window will open allowing you to add up to five pictures to the message you are entering.

When they are uploaded you close the small window, finish your message and click "Submit Reply"

[Frank Woolf]

I just looked at your pictures (Why so tiny?). The Trimaran looks beautiful. Is it yours?

If you mean clean sea water with no pollution then that's what I have in the area where my beach house is. The water is crystal clear and it is very rare to see a plastic bag. Sometimes when the wind is blowing towards us there are patches of floating leaves, banana palms, etc but its all natural.

[jens]

Thanks for the help. lost my harddrive and a lot of things got mangeled,yes that was my tri,a Harris 33 I build in foam sandwich hulls with ply/epoxy superestructure and ply and lumber beams as well as a Gougeon rotating wing mast,much to the disgust of the inflexable designer,lived aboard 15+/_ years in Florida and the Bahamas (I dont like cold weather).
The outrigger,a Chris White design,16" Dragonfly again modified rig (by me) spritsail,short mast so it could travel on deck of "Sand Key",it was my "PORSCHE".
jens
btw Your place certainly looks wonderful ,sea and sky to watch the next sunrise!

[Frank Woolf]

I have often dreamed of owning a 30 to 40 foot cruising catamaran. It will never happen of course but I still dream.

Until recently I had a 25 foot sport fishing boat that was just a bare center console when I got it. Adding the T-Top and a lot of other stuff made it a real sport fishing boat. After I bought the beach lot I discovered that it is in the area where most of the fish are but taking the boat from the boat club to where the beach house is and doing some trolling used about 80 liters of gas so I realized it made much more sense to have a smaller boat in a boat house at the beach lot.

Finding what I want for sale is extremely unlikely so I got the plans and started building a boat myself. I have plans for lots of others and hopefully will get around to building some of them. My wife likes fast boats so I may build a little speedboat then I have plans for a Puddle Duck Racer that I will let my nephew and driver make. I have plans for a Eureka Canoe a Janette sailing dinghy and few others.

The beach house and lot is so beautiful and relaxing that I have a hard time working there. I take tools and materials then when I get there I just want to relax and watch the fish at the end of the pier or wander around the garden looking after the plants.

[jens]

"What you can do,or dream you can do,begin it!Boldness has genius,power and magic in it"J.W.v.Goethe
We all should have dreams.........
I had a 40' cat modelled and designed ,however one makes choices ,some good some not so good,and one can never go back............

[Frank Woolf]

20 years ago, or even ten years ago. If I had somewhere to do it and the money to spend on it I would certainly do it. Now I am lucky I have a driver who can help me or I would be struggling with this little boat. I think I would reach the point where I can no longer do the work before I could finish a boat like yours. And then there would be the local problems of security, etc.

I am diabetic so my energy doesn't last very long and my strength is only a fraction of what it used to be. I work hard to build strength and it works but its been a slow process ever since I had colon cancer 6 years ago. I am retired but I am so busy with the beach house and soon the house to be our home that I can only average a few days a week working on the boat.

I can just imagine the feeling of achievement sailing a boat like yours that you built yourself.

[Frank Woolf]

At last the daggerboard and case are almost done. It was a long job planing the daggerboard to the right shape. I have a power planer but it is very noisy so I took the daggerboard to the beach house to rough it down then brought it home to finish it. Now it just needs a coating of resin and fiberglass cloth. At times like this I wish I had a belt sander but even if I found one here I doubt if I could get any belts.

The duck boards are also complete in the first hull so I can make a start on the seat rails maybe tomorrow. I intend to stay at the beach house from Monday to Friday next week to get work done there so there may not be much progress on the boat for the next week.

I am trying to figure out a way to make it easy to add and remove extra seats and be able to easily adjust the position of the seats. I have not come up with anything much yet

[jens]

Congrats on the progress,You'l be out there catching the breeze and fish in no time
As for removeable/adjustable seats perhaps look at plastic outdoor furniture ,its being used a lot,saves time and is very flexeable.
(I purchased a "Ryobi" beltsander on line and got belts on line as well,from Manila via LBC)
jens

[Frank Woolf]

So far I haven't seen a belt sander in Davao. Maybe I will get one next time I am in Hong Kong.

Yes I intend to use plastic chairs like the designer did, well at least the seats and backs but I haven't figured out the best way to fit them yet.

[jens]

How do Your Dogs board?

[Frank Woolf]

Rolex loves going out on boats and when we had the sportfishing boat we just helped him in via the swim ladder and platform. We have tried the two Danes in the banca a couple of times but as soon as they are in they jump out again and swim.

[Frank Woolf]

A bit more progress on the boat during the weekend. The seat rails are complete in the port side hull. Making and fitting the seat rails should be a lot easier in the other hull with no daggerboard case to work around.

I talked to Ray Aldridge, the designer, via email and followed his suggestion for mounting the seats. That is a piece of ply with battens underneath to fit between the nails. He says there is no need for anything to fix them in place as they don't move around when you are sitting on them. The design is for one seat in each hull when sailing but considering the fact that most people around here are half my size I reckon two seats in each hull will be quite OK. We can put in one or two as required at the time anyway.

I can't do any more to the port side hull until it is glassed on the outside. I want to put the rubbing strips on top of the glass to avoid a nasty corner to get the cloth into and I can't work on the deck and beam mounting until the rubbing strips are on so the port side hull is now turned over, the dagger board slot cut and all ready for glass.

[Frank Woolf]

Thanks to help from Dan both hulls are now glassed so I can get on with the decks etc as soon as the resin is hard enough.

I did the first hull myself and thought it was quite good then Dan came and did the bottom and one side of the second hull showing me his technique. The result was a lot better than what I did. I just did the second side of the second hull using Dan's technique and it looks very good.

I will do the final finishing and painting after the decks are complete.


The pictures show both hulls before and after the second side of the second hull was glassed.

[jens]

the hulls look great,congratulations ! would u care to share "Dan's technique"?

[Frank Woolf]

I had a feeling you would say that :)

He puts a thin coating of resin on the wood first then lays the cloth on it. Then pulls the cloth from the ends and sides to pull out most of the wrinkles. Then uses the squeegee to spread the cloth from the middle outwards pressing the cloth onto the wood and resin. When the cloth is perfectly flat on the wood more resin is added and spread with the squeegee pressing it into dry areas and squeezing air out of any bubbles. The result is the cloth hard against the wood and filled with resin. It is then quite easy to add more layers of resin as each one gets tacky until the cloth is filled and covered with a smooth coating.

With the last coat I put on I spread the resin from end to end of the hull then gently spread it all from side to side. The result was a very smooth finish.

When I am ready for painting I will scrub off the "bloom" with a scouring pad and kitchen cleanser, sand it smooth and add a finishing coat of resin.

[jens]

thanx for sharing,one is never to old to look over the fence and and see whats happening,wish i could have partaken.

[Frank Woolf]

I suspect you could teach us a lot.

[Frank Woolf]

I had a chance to do some work of the boat a couple of days ago but didn't get time to update this thread before I went to work on the beach house.

I finished the duckboards and the seat rails in the starboard hull and the starboard hull has the rubbing strip fitted so other than the port hull not having rubbing strips yet both hulls are at roughly the same stage.

Attached is a picture of the starboard hull with the seat rails just fitted.

[Frank Woolf]

I just finished the beam webs, fore and aft deck beams and associated bits and pieces in both hulls (pictures below).

This means I am now working on the decks so it is a big step towards finishing.

Tomorrow I will either paint inside of the fore and aft buoyancy compartments and fit the fore and aft decks, or work on the main deck frames.

I need to go to the hardware shop first which will take half a day so I may not get much done tomorrow.

I made minor changes to the deck beams that support the main beams. Instead of one piece of 3/4" x 2" I laminated two pieces of 3/4" x 3" so including the beam web there is about 3" x 2" of wood glued to the hull and the bulkhead, plus another 6" of beam web extending below this. Being a bit paranoid I figured the more strength here the better. I also extended the aft beam web to about 12" deep and glued the bottom end to a reinforcing piece of 1.5" x 2" glued to the back of the bulkhead. I cut three 1.5" holes in the beam web at the top edge of this reinforcing wood so any water that gets in the vent holes will drain out and not be trapped.

I hope I haven't added too much weight with my minor modifications.

[Frank Woolf]

Got a bit more done during the last couple of days. I treated myself to a cheap router. Something I should have done when I started building this boat. It would have saved about two days work planing the edges of the ply on the sides and bottom.

I just finished fitting the center decks then trimming the outsides and the center with the router. I also made a start on painting inside the fore and aft buoyancy compartments so the front and rear decks can be fitted but I will complete that next week. I am leaving for the beach house in a few minutes and will return on Sunday.

The pictures attached show one of the center decks fitted.

[Frank Woolf]

Good progress on the boat during the last two days. The decks are on and the first layer of the coaming is fitted in both hulls.

Tomorrow I will hopefully get the second layer of the coaming done then I can glass the decks and start cleaning up and painting the inside. The fore and aft buoyancy compartments and the front storage spaces were painted before fitting the decks.

After discussing it with Ray Aldridge, the designer, I intend to make the beam 10 feet instead of 8 feet 6 inches so this afternoon we moved everything around to see if we can get both hulls in the car port in the right positions to make the beams and the center deck. Its a very tight squeeze but its just possible.

The attached pictures show the two hulls with the decks fitted and the first layer of the coaming waiting for the resin to dry. The hulls are not in position in the picture. The starboard hull needs to be touching the plywood and the port hull touching the carport support pillar to get the 10 feet beam.

[jens]

[QUOTE=Frank Woolf;1426]Good progress on the boat

Hello Frank........
I can only echo your post,it is great to see Your dream come true.Please keep the momentum and share the pics.
With the increased beam have You modified the"Ackerman" on the steering?
Regards,jens :)

[Frank Woolf]

Thanks for the feedback. Ray Aldridge said I would need to modify the Ackerman but I haven't yet looked at how to actually do it. I wanted to check other things like the entry ways into the boat house first.

I checked the boat house yesterday and the spaces between the supporting pillars are 10' 6" so I think making the boat 10' wide will almost certainly result in some damage getting it in and out. If I make it 9' 6" I will have a little space to put some sort of padding on the boat house concrete pillars.

[Frank Woolf]

The hull decks are done and the beams are rough cut to fit with the overall beam set at 9' 6". I was fortunate that after weeks of searching for straight wood the hardware store suddenly has a huge stock of lauan, a local lightweight hardwood. I not only got the wood for the mast but also got nice pieces for the beams yesterday and while I was at it enough 6" x 2" x 10 feet to make a hefty kitchen table for the beach house.

I don't really know if I am going way over the top but I want to put 3 half inch bolts at the ends of each of the beams and I want 2" wide stainless steel strips to act as washers for the nuts and bolts and to spread the load.

[Dean P]

Hello Frank,

Been reading of your build with interest as I built the Slider-Cat HONU which was the second Slider-Cat to hit the water "I Think". I wanted to suggest to you that when you attach your beams to your hulls that you spread the bolts out in a top and bottom pattern. I did not do this and my beam attachment bolts are all in a straight line across the beam and I see the beam flexing away from the beam webs on the hulls in a stiff wind. I think 2 bolts across the top with 2 more bolts across the bottom of each hull-beam attachment point would take out the flex that I see on HONU especially with your increased beam width. Keep up the good work. This is a really enjoyable boat to sail and camp on.

Dean

[Frank Woolf]

Thanks for the input Dean. Its good to hear from someone who has built one before.

I have been planning to make stainless steel plates on each side to spread the load rather than just bolts and washers and thought it was maybe over the top but now I see it is not over the top at all.

I planned 3 half inch bolts in a line but maybe I should make the Stainless steel plates wider and have two towards the bottom and one closer to the top. Or as you suggest have four bolts.

My problem is I can't find large diameter washers here so I figured having one very large washer in the form of a stainless steel plate on each side would be better.

Maybe I should really make sure and have 4 staggered bolts with stainless steel plates.

I didn't do much during the last couple of days. I was expecting to assemble the center deck but I can't get long enough stainless screws here. I will be in Manila over the weekend and a friend there will get them for me.

The attached picture shows the deck planks just cut and laid in place. They are 3 1/2" wide x 3/4" planks with about 1" spaces.

[Dean P]

Hello Frank,

Yes, two rows of bolts, two across the top and two across the top will keep your beams from flexing away from the beam bulkheads with the mast raised. I had to make a mast step with a 4 degree rake to rake my mast back as the mast step as drawn by Ray is plenty strong but places the mast straight up and down without any rake. When I did this I noticed my mast beam was flexing away from the beam bulkhead at the top.
I have my center planks separated by a 16 penny nail width apart as I found the 1 inch separation to be to wide and my pencil kept falling through. Now nothing falls through but the boards are not tight together.
You are going to have a lot of fun with your boat as it sails great and it's faster than it has reason to be.

Dean

[Frank Woolf]

I don't have any experience of building sailboats and I am a beginner at sailing as I have mostly only crewed in dinghies in Hong Kong about 35 years ago. I was discussing boat building with a friend yesterday and mentioned that the sails and rigging can be fine tuned like, for example changing the angle (rake) of the mast.

I have not yet looked closely at the mast or rigging in the plans but I am not clear why you needed to make a new mast step. Isn't the mast "standing" on a bolt at the mast step so just adjusting the shrouds would change the angle?

[Dean P]

Yes it is sitting on a bolt and the angle can be adjusted with the shrouds. I just wanted to have the step match the mast angle. My girlfriend says I'm "ainal" that way:-}}

Dean

[Frank Woolf]

:D So am I :D

[Frank Woolf]

Christmas and new year are over so its time to get back to work on the boat. I just finished sanding and spraying the duck boards and center deck with polyurethane varnish. A couple more coats may still be needed. I have only done spray painting with an aerosol can until now but I am glad I bought the compressor and spray gun.

The table in the first picture is for the beach house kitchen. It was bugging me waiting around for resin to set and we need a table at the beach house so I made the table during those times I was waiting for resin to set on the boat. I have started fiberglassing the decks and will hopefully finish them in the next day or two then I can start finishing and painting the hulls.

[Frank Woolf]

A bit more progress today as I sanded the first coat of resin and fiberglass cloth on the hull decks then added another coat of resin. This one should be thick enough to sand it smooth for painting without cutting into the cloth.

The rear deck in the foreground of the second picture has already had the second coat and been sanded ready for painting. Next I will sand and clean up inside the hulls then turn them over and see if the outside needs a second coat prior to sanding for painting.

The center deck can be seen hanging from the ceiling in the third picture. I don't have much space to put it out of the way.

I made a start on the launching trolley that may also be a road trailer. I need to decide whether to adapt my farm trailer to take the boat to the beach house or add a center section above the wheels of the launching trolly so the boat can be put higher up and dismantled for towing. The center section can be removable to keep the launching trolley as light as possible.

[Frank Woolf]

Almost finished now.

I have been working on the mast, boom, sprit, rudders, rudder stocks and tillers so was not much to taker pictures of.

All the above are now almost finished.

When I looked at the plans I thought the boom might look a bit strange but now I see it assembled it really looks pretty good and is obviously very strong while being lightweight.

The first picture shows the boom and sprit being assembled.

I took them to the beach to plane and shape them with power tools without disturbing anyone. Picture 2 shows the end result.

[Frank Woolf]

I just realized I haven't updated this thread in a while. I have almost everything ready for painting now although the hulls still need to be sanded and the almost finished trailer/launching trolley needs to be gone over with a wire brush in an electric drill before painting with primer.

The stainless steel boarding ladder is done but I have not quite figured out the best way to hold it horizontal when sailing. Quite likely just a lanyard to a hook or cleat on the mast will be fine as long as it doesn't interfere with the jib.

In the first picture you see the launching trolley configuration. It will be like this most of the time with the boat fully assembled and stored on the trolley. It is quite close to the ground but high enough to avoid scrapes and I think it will tip up enough to drain any water out through the rear drain plugs.

The other pictures show the trailer configuration. The two wood cross beams with triangles that support the boat and guide it into position are removed then a separate section drops onto the metal frame and is bolted in place with four 3/8" bolts. This section has a hinged top with motorcycle shock absorber/springs at the front. in this configuration the boat is a foot or more higher to clear the bumps and potholes on the road to the beach house.

The pictures were taken during a test loading where everything except the center deck is on the trailer. I found the shock absorber/springs are not quite enough so when we move the boat I will lighten the load a lot by putting stuff in or on the car.

[davaodan]

Hi Frank,

Your boat looks great! Give me a call when you get it over to the island, I want a ride.:) Your Thalco squeegees are here and I will deliver them to you too. No invoice yet so I'm not sure about the pricing.

I am building another boat too, it is a 12 foot power boat and I will be getting it on the water soon and visiting you at your place with it. Hop in! This boat is much easier to launch and retrieve than the 18 footer so I anticipate I will be using it much more. Your launching trailer looks like it will easily move your boat in and out too.

Later,

Dan

[Frank Woolf]

Thanks Dan,

I intended to have a local guy finish the sanding then finish it all with gel coat which would be great but its hard to justify the 60,000 pesos cost of him doing it.

I don't know yet how easy it will be to pull the boat up the beach but I can move it around the driveway easily on my own, including going up the slope. I think my original estimate of three people to pull it up may be correct.

I was going to take it to the beach house to do the sanding and painting but we may start building in Toril very soon and I will need to be there a lot. I can usually only do one day a week at the beach so it would be very slow.

I plan to build something like the boat house in Toril but bigger for car parking, workshop and secure storage so it might be best to wait until that is usable then I can work there and supervise the building at the same time.

I think the nephews may be off school for a while so if they can help I could finish it at the beach maybe in a 5 day session.

I expect to be building boats and furniture, etc in Toril so another priority is building a workbench like yours but I need to find the pipe clamps first.

When do you expect to finish your new boat?

[davaodan]

Hi Frank,

The boat is functionally finished but lacks paint, a sunshade, and some detail work. And I forgot to take pictures this morning! Next week I will post some but I think even then it will not be painted. I'm off to Dipolog for a wedding.

Later,

Dan

[Frank Woolf]

It sounds like we will have a good number of boats in our area soon.

We went to the beach on Friday and just got back today, Monday.

We loaded the unfinished boat on the unfinished trailer and took it to the boat house to do the sanding and painting. The power went off at about 3am on Saturday morning until lunchtime but we still got a lot done.

I started spraying the Epoxy paint but it is very thick. My compressor is not big enough to maintain the high pressure needed so I have to find something to thin the epoxy paint before I can continue. Any suggestions? Have you tried thinning epoxy paint?

The pictures show us leaving home arriving at the beach house via a neighbor's lot and most of the boat in the boat house

[davaodan]

Hi Frank,

I was at ACE Hardware at SM today and I saw they have epoxy thinner or reducer available there. Probably it is mostly acetone, although I'm not sure. It is not generally recommended to thin epoxy resin I believe but this is paint, not resin. If that is what it takes, so be it. Is it gelcoat? I understand that gelcoat is a polyester resin not epoxy.

I didn't recommend the brand name of clamp I prefer in the New-Fangled Workbench but it is Jorgensen. I also use other brands of clamps and they are quite good. I have asked on the pinoyhandyman forum and they are assuring me that the clamps on galvanized pipe they use for pipe clamps do not slip. Black iron pipe rusts so badly here in the Philippines that I want to get away from using it.

Later,

Dan in Davao

[Frank Woolf]

Thanks Dan, I will get some from Ace Hardware and try a small sample first to see what happens.

Do you think the clamps would slip on stainless steel?

[jens]

hello Frank
Long time no speak,(long story)....... epoxy breaks down in ultraviolet not a good choice on the water,i would suggest a linear polyurethane paint,it's used widely in the industry,application should be roll and tip,more economical and by far better for your heath ,as well as the environment (don't do a Monsanto).
There is no differance in automotive and boat/yacht finish except below the waterline,spy on the auto body shops and lock over their fence!
Love the progress in the gardening, stil locking for a place to grow my own stuff
Your place is Paradise,sit back and smell the Zenias!
Good health and laughter........
jens:)

[davaodan]

Hi Frank,

Stainless would work fine I think, as long as the wall thickness of the pipe is equal to schedule 40. I actually use schedule 20 black iron pipe because it is so common so you probably could also. You have a source for stainless pipe? How much is it? I haven't bought my pipe yet.

What Jens says sounds good but if you've bought the paint already you might as well use it. And the part about sit back and smell the zinnias is also good advice.

Dan

[Frank Woolf]

Thanks Guys,

Yes I already have the paint and have started painting. It took 5 hours to spray about half a liter of paint! Maybe I can thin the Epoxy paint and use it to get a tough smooth finish then put automotive paint on top? Do you think it will stick OK if the epoxy paint is sanded?

Jens, Finding the right stuff here is close to impossible if you want good quality. Most of the shops here only sell stuff that people who want cheap would buy and its very rare to find shop staff who know the products. Even asking for something to thin the epoxy paint just results in a blank stare.

So far I have not even been able to find any varnish that is UV resistant and of course the shop staff don't know what that means. I ask for outdoor varnish and get the blank stare.

I have used indoor Polyurethane varnish for the deck and duckboards and for the tables and seats at the beach house. When I made a top deck for my previous boat I used floor varnish and two years later it was still OK. Like the previous boat this one will only see direct sunlight when its in use so maybe that will help it last.

I get stainless steel tube from Davao Diamond. It is expensive but we don't need much for a bench. I don't remember prices but I would guess a 20 foot length would be between 1,000 and 2,000 pesos. I have some offcuts here I can show you.

[davaodan]

Hi Frank,

I am pretty sure that Ace Hardware will have UV resistant varnish. Bring your eyeglasses because as you say, the help is mostly helpless.

I just hate going to Diamond because of the lack of parking but they seem to be the only game in town if you want something out of the cheap and usual. Is it difficult to cut threads in that stainless pipe? If I get to Ace before you do I will check on UV resistant varnish.

Later,

Dan

[Frank Woolf]

I used to be a regular customer at Davao Diamond until they tried to rip me off. Now I never show my face there and just send my nephew or driver if I need something I can't get elsewhere.

It is extremely difficult to cut threads in Stainless steel. I didn't realize there were any threads in the bench design. Even drilling a hole can be difficult and cutting it is hard work.

[davaodan]

Hi Frank,

Cutting threads is necessary to secure the screw clamp end of the bar clamp. The other end slides on the bar but one end is secured with pipe threads, female on the clamp, male on the pipe.

I am glad you went back to Ace to find the epoxy reducer, having gone that far and not coming back with what you went for is painful.

Kim Guan Trading on Bangoy near Magsaysay also has little parking and the same system of sitting down with the buyer but it has provided me with many needs. If I cannot find the schedule 40 GI pipe for the clamps at a local hardware that is where I will go. They have entertained me and treated me fairly, but sometimes it is wiser to send in your helper.

Later,

Dan

[Frank Woolf]

That would make stainless steel impractical unless we can find a machine shop to cut the threads or use an alternative way like drilling out the thread and putting a bolt through the clamp and tube.

Typical Philippines - at the weekend my nephew went around on his bike looking for epoxy reducer and nobody had any or even seemed to know what it was. After all the hassle at Ace hardware to get some we went to Citi-Hardware to get nails and stuff. There were at least four different brands of epoxy reducer on the shelves including the same brand as the paint I have.

[Frank Woolf]

I just ordered some of these pipe clamps that look like they don't need a thread on the tube:
http://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-224212-2-Inch-Pipe-Clamp/dp/B0000CCXVP

I plan to make the work bench about 36" wide and long enough to clamp an 8 foot length in the lengthways clamps.

I started spraying with thinned epoxy and so far it is going OK. I will be going back to the beach tomorrow to continue. I found some exterior varnish in Ace hardware so I will experiment with varnishing the wood paddles I just made and try varnishing over some epoxy paint.

[davaodan]

Hi Frank,

That kind of clamp will enable you to use the stainless pipe if you want to. I recently had a problem with 1/2 inch galvanized pipe that was just a bit bigger in diameter than a standard 1/2 inch pipe. I would thread it and the end would drop off inside the threaded portion of the clamp. Whether I threaded it or the store threaded it the end of the threaded portion would be pulled off in the clamp. The pipe was schedule 40 but with the diameter slightly larger, ID and OD and the threaded portion was cut deeper into the pipe so it was very thin at the end of the threaded portion. I'll be able to use the pipe in another project but not for clamps or plumbing. Living here keeps me on my toes.

I just finished adding the last coat of epoxy on the bottom of my new 12 footer so now I must wash the "bloom" off and give it a little sanding before painting. I'll be using regular oil exterior house paint as that has given me good service. The epoxy paint I used on the 18 footer discolored a bit in the sun.

I am planning on a bimini top to give shade, do you know if the local stainless shops use standard 3/4 and 7/8 stainless tubing? I can get fittings from the US for those sizes.

If my talk about my project detracts from your intent for Frank's Forums just delete all or part of this.

Later,

Dan

[Frank Woolf]

Its all related to the subject so I appreciate your input.

I wondered about the wisdom of using low quality steel. It may be like cast iron that has great compressive strength but very little sheer or tensile strength. Stainless will be very strong even if its not thick. I think the stainless tube sizes go by the outside diameter and the wall thickness. I don't know exactly what the outside diameter is supposed to be for the clamps so I intend to wait until they arrive before I buy any tube.

Did you keep the 18 footer out in the sun or was it kept in the shade except when in use?

I am hoping that because mine will only see the sun when its in use it may be OK but I will also try the varnish I got today as a protective finish over the paint.

I also discovered that the paint I used for the window frames of the beach house is UV resistant so maybe an alternative is to use that as a top coat if it will stick well to the epoxy paint.

[davaodan]

My boat (rather John's boat) was kept bottom up directly in the sun with little or no shade. The paint discolored and lost it's gloss. I am sure your boat since it is stored in your boat shed will be fine for years to come. The epoxy paint I used on the pair of my Adirondack chairs is very hard and holding up very well except where my dog has chewed through a portion of the seat. Has to be seen to be believed, a termite dog!

Dan

[Frank Woolf]

That's good news. Thanks. Maybe I don't need to worry about the paint at all.

I will put a coat of the exterior varnish I found on all the varnished wood as it needs a little more anyway but I will test first. The first varnish I got was awful. I couldn't get a good finish with brush or spray, with or without reducer so I won't risk that problem on all the wood that just needs a little more.

I also have a couple of termite dogs. When I pick up a saw they come over and stand close by waiting for a piece of wood to fall off, then they grab it and chew it up.

[Frank Woolf]

The painting is seriously under way at last but its going to be a long job now that the boat is at the beach house. I can only work on it for about one day a week because I am to busy with other things to spend much time there.

[davaodan]

Hi Frank,

My 12 footer is finished! Artug and I visited your dock but you had already gone. The boat is perfect....as long as you stand far enough away!

Keith has returned from Siargao and the tourney, he caught a 15 kilo sailfish. He has some bait rigging ideas that I want to try out here. I am hoping that I can catch a fish if I spend enough time on the water. This boat is comfortable with the sunshade so I can spend that time.

I'll stop by your pier again, don't worry, and give you a ride.

Later,

Dan

[Frank Woolf]

I am expecting to be on Samal from Thursday to Saturday but not sure yet.

[Frank Woolf]

I just got back from a few days at the beach and the hull sides and bottoms along with all the spars, rudders etc now have 3 to 5 coats of epoxy paint. Next week maybe I can start painting the decks and cockpits and add some padding to the launching trolley. The hollow blocks under the hulls are there to stop it tipping over if we climb into the cockpits to work on it.

Last week we could not go to the beach so we made a Quick Canoe which the boys also started painting this week.

It took us about 5 days to make the canoe including the additions I added like buoyancy compartments, decking all around, etc. I figured the boys would enjoy making something that could be finished in a few days. Its almost all complete so next week they can be on the water.

[Frank Woolf]

That kind of clamp will enable you to use the stainless pipe if you want to. I recently had a problem with 1/2 inch galvanized pipe that was just a bit bigger in diameter than a standard 1/2 inch pipe. I would thread it and the end would drop off inside the threaded portion of the clamp. Whether I threaded it or the store threaded it the end of the threaded portion would be pulled off in the clamp. The pipe was schedule 40 but with the diameter slightly larger, ID and OD and the threaded portion was cut deeper into the pipe so it was very thin at the end of the threaded portion. I'll be able to use the pipe in another project but not for clamps or plumbing.

My wife was here for a few days and brought the clamps from Hong Kong. I tried one on a scrap piece of stainless tube. They fit well and I can close the clamp very tight without any slippage. I will get the wood and stainless tube in a day or two so I can start making the bench.

[Frank Woolf]

Not much progress on the boat as the electricity was out at the beach house for two weeks.
We did another coat of paint on the decks and cockpits last weekend and hopefully can do the same during the next two weekends.

[Frank Woolf]

It has been far too long since I had time to make any progress with this boat but I just got back from the beach house where I was able to get a little more done.

The main painting and varnishing is complete so yesterday I was able to paint a blue stripe around under the gunwales. I intended to also paint a stripe at the waterline but I forgot to take the plans with me so I didn't know exactly where it should be. If I can get back to do more next week I will do the waterline stripe or maybe paint the bottom up to the waterline in the same blue.

[Frank Woolf]

I managed to get a little more done yesterday as I added a blue stripe for the waterline. I think it improves the look as it breaks up the large expanse of plain white on the sides.

Next time I go back I will get started on assembly.

[Frank Woolf]

At last I managed to get a day to start assembly and got quite a lot done.

The beams are not yet bolted tight. I wanted to check the fit first then next time I work on it I will remove the bolts one at a time, put sealant in the holes and tighten them all.

I found a minor problem with the rudders in that they touch the rear transom before the rudders stops limit their travel. I may need to take the corner off one side of each rudder and touch up the paint.

[Frank Woolf]

A few more pictures.

The design calls for only one seat in each hull but people here are only half the size of people in the USA and the seats can be lifted out or dropped in as and when needed so it seemed worthwhile to make four.

[Frank Woolf]

Two more is enough for now.

[Doc]

Hey Frank

You have done a great job on this. I am feeling some envy. When you get it in the water, please see if you can get a short movie clip. If I were back in Gensan I would be asking if I could come by for a closer look. Any idea when you may get it finished?

[davaodan]

Frank you have done an outstanding job. Get it in the water! You may beat me getting your first cruise. I still have some detail work on my Tango 14 skiff.

[Frank Woolf]

Hey Frank

You have done a great job on this. I am feeling some envy. When you get it in the water, please see if you can get a short movie clip. If I were back in Gensan I would be asking if I could come by for a closer look. Any idea when you may get it finished?

Thanks Doc. I will try to get some video footage. I don't have much left to do but I am so busy I am lucky if I can get more than one day per month to work on it. I would think maybe two more days work depending on what unknowns may come up.

[Frank Woolf]

Frank you have done an outstanding job. Get it in the water! You may beat me getting your first cruise. I still have some detail work on my Tango 14 skiff.

Thanks Dan,

It could be in the water in a week or two but it could be a month or three.

Its good to see it coming together at last.

[Frank Woolf]

I needed to go to the beach house with my brother in law so he can manage the final work on the house and pier. While I was there I was able to get a little more done on the boat.

I finished the rudders up down mechanism with quick release cleats etc, fitted the stainless steel straps to the top of the mast and made the stainless steel supporting wires (shrouds). Now when I get time to go back I can quickly raise the mast into position to continue work on the rigging, sails and steering.